To clean, purchase a can of MAF sensor cleaner at your local auto parts store. If you do, you'll probably want to clean that one before installing it, so read on. Otherwise, you can probably get a used MAF sensor at a salvage yard for about $50. You can indeed clean your MAF sensor, and this may solve your problem. Are there some easy things I can check with a voltmeter? I can check the MAF connector voltages, but I'm not sure what they should be. It's rather a pricey "change it just in case" part. I would like to avoid replacing the MAF sensor if I don't have to. I didn't thought about it before, but what is a normal mass air flow rate? It does vary with rpm of course, but I can account for that. On other sections, it went up to 0.03 kg/s while at speed, then stayed there until the end of the trip. For some trips, the reading was 0 for the whole drive, even up to 60 or 70 km/h. I have no baseline on what they should be. Is that normal? I didn't realize it would be that much higher. Yesterday on a trip to Selkirk (some highway driving at 80 to 90 km/h, some city driving), the intake air temperature was 30 to 50 degrees C. Over the weekend, I replaced the IAT sensor and that code has now gone away. ![]() I found two codes, P0102 Mass Air Flow Circuit Low Input and P0113 IAT Circuit High Input. I can't see the data in real time, which is quite inconvenient for troubleshooting. It is a OBD2 data logger which is capable of reading codes, resetting the check engine light, and logging various engine parameters every 5 seconds. I got the codes that were there by using my Car Chip. ![]() And it even went away by itself once or twice but seems to be quite persistent now! The check engine light came on a few weeks ago.
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